In the photo below, you can see what we are looking for when buffing. There are specific rules to be followed in applying any finish, whether oil or water based. After 40 plus years of finishing doors, woodwork, furniture etc I can tell you what I use and it's easy and comes out baby butt smooth. So I sanded them out and brushed on a new coat. Is one coat of polyurethane enough? You'll want to cover your wood furniture item with several coats of protective polyurethane. Otherwise, it will show through on your next coat. A good-quality natural-bristle brush, a reasonably dust-free, well-ventilated space and some patience are all you need. You should ensure that you sand the previous coats so that you create a perfectly level and even base for your final coat. A gloss finish since it is free of flattening compounds is clearer. I prefer the 320 grit between coats. But, you always have to buff it once. Ultra-smooth surface is inevitable in terms of getting an excellent finish. If you miss the bubbles when the polyurethane is still fresh, you can even get rid of them after the finish has dried. For the final coat, if I really want a smooth coat, I will use a spray can, just for the last coat. Any slight specs after the final coat will be rubbed out. This step will remove any rough patches and give the piece a smooth finish. Several light coats will get you a smooth finish. Do not buff the final polyurethane finish coat. Heating, dropping rocks and chiseling the wood. This Site Might Help You. Step 13 Apply two sealer coats of polyurethane mixed with mineral spirits to the underside of the piece of furniture if it is made of traditional hardwood lumber. While it’s good practice to use fresh varnish, I recently used some that had been sitting around for 15 … If a second coat is needed (and I usually advise at least 2 coats for normal furniture and 3 coats for high traffic or areas around water), you will want to sand, vacuum and tack cloth the piece between coats. Instead, it would be best if you sprayed it or spread it in a nice and level way. But large bubbles formed in the second coat about 10 minutes after I applied it. I am staining and finishing oak doors for the first time. Wait for drying Apply a THIN coat of Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane using a high-quality natural or foam brush. Unsanded wood is hard, bumpy, and often unpleasing to the eye. If you don't have a soft enough brush or it's too hot or you don't work it fast enough then you are left with a bunch of brush marks to contend with. Hand Rub With Wipe-On Varnish or Oil If you want to transform the sheen from high gloss to satin or matte, then using a hardening oil such as tung oil is a good way to do it. After final coat rub out with 0000 steel wool and wax with carnuba. If third coat is desired, repeat step 5 before application. No, you are not supposed to sand the final coat. Three plus will get a smother finish. I like to use a green Scoth Brite pad. Thin coats will result in you burning through the top layer. This ensures the protectant goes on smoothly and actually provides a finished look. It is best to sand your wood before any coats are added. I waited 20 minutes between layers and then waited an entire day before spraying the final coat of spray paint to cover any discoloration. Personally, I would do it but you’ve got to consider how your clear coat might effect the decal down the line. Any slight specs after the final coat will be rubbed out. This will ensure a super smooth finish. So, my final coat is not mirror smooth. I didn’t shake the can, and the brush didn’t leave any bubbles behind. With water-based polyurethane finishes, you generally don’t have to buff after each coat to achieve adhesion if it is applied within so many hours. Pop any bubbles you see by brushing back over the finish. For hardwood floors, there are more coasts of PU than normal ones. Aim for a smooth, uniform finish. If you do not sand the primer appropriately, you might have blotchy stains on the piece when you apply the final coat of paint. The problem is easily fixed. If your kitchen table is made of oak or ash, take a wood grain filler and apply it before the poly. Always stretch the polyurethane as thin as you can. So brushed-on coats of a standard varnish would do the trick nicely. However, there is a way to remedy these flaws without undoing a day's work. Rubbing out the finish you would re-create the satin by scuffing the finish with 0000 steel wool. It came out great. Then we buff with an abrasive pad. If you notice significant bumps in the dried coat, use a razor blade to shave these off. Apply a full-strength final coat. Varathane Professional Interior Varnish is my #1 pick right now. Oil-based polyurethane varnish brings out wood's natural beauty and grain. Let the polyurethane sit for about 10 minutes after stirring to allow the foam to settle. A little test of how well polyurethane works when there are 40 coats. When you sand and rub out the final finish you take off most of the surface which contains the satin. There’s a running debate on whether or not you should apply your clear coat over your vinyl decals. Make sure that you have plenty of mineral spirits on hand to clean up your brushes and any type of mess that you create. Typically, two to three coats are used with sanding in between coats to even them out. Take 220 – grit paper to sand the wood. You’ll get the best results from your topcoat if you remove any old paint, varnish or other finishes before polyurethane application. Sand the coat lightly with 220-grit sandpaper when dry. I personally prefer using a small foam roller and foam brush' Smooth finish, no brush marks. Take your time, like the pros do, and you'll create a durable, smooth, lasting finish. I am primarily doing this on decent sized flat surfaces, 5-6 sq/ft. The first coat on the top looked good too. Move in the direction of the wood grain. How do you get that hard smooth finish? You apply the final coat, let it dry and you're done. What do you do after you apply the final coat of polyurethane to smooth out the imperfections? Remove all dust. How many coats of polyurethane should be put on hardwood floors? Let dry 4-6 hours. Unfortunately, despite using an all natural brush, I can still see brush strokes. I am in the process of redoing a bureau. Step One – Use 120 grit or finer sandpaper to scuff sand the bubbles. As for figured cherry, there should be no reason to pore-fill. Find a paint brush that is super soft to apply it. This will create the impression that you sprayed all the coats and give the finish a … Similarly, if you want an impressive final finish, the wood surface has to be smooth and clean before applying the poly. So, the spots are too noticeable for this type of project. Now that the coat is dry, you can lightly sand its entire surface. There seems to be a lot of controversy on a rough first coat of polyurethane and what to do about it. After the first coat, all you are trying to do is remove the bumps and scuff the surface for the next coat, so 220 is just too rough. No sanding required. I'm not really a fan of poly, I find it dies too quickly. If you are going to brush it do it sometime when the temperature is under 90. Overall, Polyurethane is the easiest form of finish that even first-timers won't have difficulty in applying. Lightly sand in between poly coats. However, you do not want to sand the final coat or you will end up with a … Before my "final coat", even if my previous coat was perfect, I sand with 400-600 and 0000 steel wool to make it silky smooth before that last coat. Then lightly sand entire surface with fine sandpaper (220 grit) to ensure an even finish and proper adhesion. Try to get the "non-filling" type, like the waterproof or aluminium oxide. Sanding removes the lines and ridges created by the … Primers can often be thick and difficult to clean up. Getting a smooth, blemish-free finish with oil-based polyurethane is within your grasp if you follow the steps in this article. This removes the high spots, the embedded dust, the laps, etc. Intercoat abrasion with a multi-disc and 220 grit sandpaper Polyurethane wood floor finish tip: When you abrade your floors, make sure you buff out any dust, particles and bubbles, before cleaning and tacking. There are always some little imperfections and spots. Polyurethane is the modern product most often used as varnish, or clear finish, on stained and painted wood surfaces. How to Remove Brush Marks From a Polyurethane Finish . You can apply it and leave it (if you have a good dust free environment) this will leave you with the best sheen, or you may need to do a final buff out with very fine sandpaper 400 grit, then buff out with a rag, this will leave you with a very smooth “hand rubbed satin” finish. No matter how many coats you add of Polyurethane, the look will still not be completed. It levels out so nicely. The thinner each layers and the longer you let each layer dry the better. Do this by sanding out the bubbles then apply a fresh coat of the product. You can use a belt sander on larger projects, or sandpaper by hand on smaller wood items. However, do not worry if you have applied polyurethane coats unevenly. Do You Sand the Final Coat of Polyurethane? How Long Do You Let Polyurethane Cure Before Wet Sanding?. The wiping poly is the easier product to get good results short of spraying the finish. If this is your first time working with Varathane, there may be some uneven spots. Final Finish. The paint and Polyurethane will mix and fill the layers, any holes, and printed flaws. Brush marks often show up on pieces of furniture treated with polyurethane finish, usually despite the best efforts of the craftsman. Do not sand the paint before applying poly. The finish should feel smooth and flat, no bumps. After I stripped, sanded, and stained my solid-oak kitchen table, I brushed three coats of polyurethane on the underside. Just as you did with the initial coats, brush the polyurethane onto the surface, working systematically from one side of the project to the other. At least three coats of poly. If you really want that mirror finish, spray the final coat. 7. For a smooth coating you’ll want the surface to be as smooth as possible, so prepare the wood by sanding it with a sanding block or orbital sander. A: Professionals sometimes find water-based urethanes hard to apply. After the final coat dries for 48 hours or more, we wet sand it with water and 400 grit sandpaper. After your final sanding, apply your final finish coat. ; Start with 120-grit sandpaper on refinished pieces and 80-grit on new wood. The final one is the polishing coat: many users use PU to create the glossy surface for wood products. How to Sand Out Bubbles from your finish. I prep sanded the wood using 80 grit and worked up to 220 grit. RE: How do I smooth out uneven brush strokes in polyurethane? How do you polish these few imperfections out of polyurethane after the final coating to still maintain a high-gloss, smooth finish? I used a gel stain for color and then I have applied 3 coats of Varathane polyurethane with a satin finish. Normally, the property of the floor surface also affects to the finish paint quality. Apply second coat. Dip your brush gently and take your time painting the surface. Applying polyurethane in even coats is a crucial, though not always simple task. Our 8-step approach shows you how to apply the varnish successfully. Oil-based polyurethanes are easy to apply but take too long to dry while water-based polyurethanes usually require multiple applications and have a whitish consistency upon application which disappears once dry.. Water-based polyurethane also tends to dry faster. For polyurethane, you’ll probably apply five to ten coats. You really want that final layer of finish to be thick enough to withstand the rubbing out process. 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